A Guide To Snowboarding In the USA
America is a powerhouse in the ski and snowboard community and this reflected in its people. On the East Coast, you have a hardened bunch of locals passionate enough to #skitheeast although it doesn’t always offer the rewards. On the West Coast you have the lucky Californians who have it all, 12m of snowfall a season at Kirkwood, masses of terrain at Heavenly, Squaw Valley and Mammoth, a freestyle heaven at Northstar and views that take your breathe away when the cold doesn’t. The USA can be considered amongst the greatest places to ski on earth and is the birthplace of snowboarding, whats to complain about!
Getting to the USA may take longer for us Europeans, and depending on where you ski, you could pay a premium for lift passes. Despite the cost of lift passes in America I wouldn’t rule out an American ski adventure. There are ways to get value for your buck whilst skiing in America and you wont regret the outlay.
My first ever ski trip was to the US and Killington ski resort in the Vermont mountains. East Coast skiing offers a number of advantages over a trip out west. The mountains in Vermont and Maine can offer the full package at resorts like; Okamo, Stowe and Killington or you can opt for a more local feel at the family resorts of Jay Peak and Smugglers’ Notch. The East Coast resorts are known for beautiful pistes lined with trees but sometimes also known for their icy conditions. Skiing and snowboarding on the East Coast is possible from November into June with Killington offering the longest season. Although it is worth noting, that this involves largely one run remaining open on Killington late into the season. That run does happen to be Superstar my first ever Black diamond run. Another bonus to East Coast ski trips is the shorter flight time from Europe. The shorter flight time combined with cheaper flights is certainly a big pull for skiers from this side of the pond.
When it comes to skiing and snowboarding in America there is one image that sticks in my mind, Corbet’s Couloir. Although I have not been fortunate to ski Corbet’s yet, this iconic line at Jackson Hole, Wyoming, is reflective of some of the possible gnarly runs possible in the USA. Jackson Hole is not alone and there are plenty of resorts with terrain that is certain to make your heart skip a beat.
Although always popular, the last few years Colorado’s incredible terrain and reliable snow conditions have been showcased by Youtubers such as Jonathan Buckhouse and TJ from BoardArchive. Colorado is home to the world famous and slightly controversial Vail resort, which is now infamous for introducing the Epic Pass (more info to follow) and the resort of Breckenridge. Breckenridge is the resort where Ryan Knapton can be found tearing up the groomers and this is a showcase of how great the pisted terrain is at Breckenridge.
Away from Colorado you have Utah whose ski resorts of A*** and Snowbird receive some of the best snow on the continent. It is just a shame that A*** and other Utah resort D*** V***** wont let snowboarders access their slopes, lame. With that off my chest it’s important to remember that Utah is still home to the USA’s largest ski area in Park City and the incredible landscape of Brain Head.
In 2020 I was lucky enough to visit California and the resorts of Heavenly, Kirkwood and Northstar. We all know what happened to the 2020 ski season, but those early turns on the West coast were enough to sustain my lust for snow for the rest of winter. California is an incredible destination for a US ski trip with some of the best resorts in the country. Heavenly, situated in South Lake Tahoe, is a resort that spans two states. The California side has some great tree skiing, two terrain parks and one of the best views I have ever seen at a ski resort. Across the state line in Nevada, Heavenly offers a different perspective across the Nevada desert and some superb cruisey blues. Nevada is also home to Mott Canyon which I think would excite even the most hardened skiers and snowboarders. Tahoe is an exciting place to be with Squaw Valley, Sierra at Tahoe, Northstar, and Kirkwood all within driving distance of each other.
American ski trips are more than just the time you spend on show with resorts putting on a range of Apres ski activities. Using Tahoe as an example there are; casinos, snowmobile tours, ice-rink, cinema, and some great restaurants to keep you occupied after your day on snow. This should illustrate the quality of facilities on offer at American ski resorts with many being purpose built resorts with everything within walking distance of the accommodation.
Unlike European resorts, American ski resorts can be spread out with the need to drive to get your provisions but if you want everything on your doorstep this is also a possibility. The ski towns normally have a great selection of restaurants and bars, most of which will offer good deals on certain days or happy hours. It’s worth planning out where you want to eat on which day like this as it is likely to save you money.
The largest downside to a trip stateside is the abhorrent prices of lift tickets. Day passes are extortionate and America can be an expensive place to ski if only taking a one-week trip. Your best option is to make use of the multi-resort season pass options that have become quite controversial in the states. Epic and Ikon are the two major options of multi-resort ski passes with the Epic also offering some great options to ski in Europe and the Southern Hemisphere. In 2020, I used my Epic Pass to ski at the resorts of Ski Rama Dolomiti, Italy, The 3 Vallees, France and Heavenly, Kirkwood and Northstar in the US. For me this represented great value, but if you can only get a one week trip every year then the USA may be an expensive option for lift passes.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Where can you ski year round in the USA?
In Europe there are a number of ski resorts that are open for year round operation, sadly in the US this is not the case. The sole 365 ski resort in the US is Timberline Lodge at Mt Hood in Oregon. The Timberline lodge ski area is open throughout the summer months and offers some freestyle focussed terrain on the Palmer Glacier.
What is the largest ski resort in USA?
Utah is home to the largest ski resort in the USA with Park City taking the title. Park City ski area outside of Salt Lake City offers 250km of pistes between an elevation of 2080m-3049m. The masses of terrain at Park City is serviced by 39 chairlifts. Park City is great for intermediates with 152km of the trails being graded for intermediate level riders.
What is the most expensive ski resort in the USA?
Completely at the opposite end of how I like to ski this question asks for the most expensive ski resort in the USA. I am just grateful that the answer is D*** V***** which I have no intention of heading to due to their stance on snowboarders. It is reported that guests spend over $500 per night for a room in a 3* hotel at D*** V*****.
Which State in the USA has the most ski resorts?
In total, there are around 476 operating ski resorts in the USA which open across 37 different states. The state with the most ski resorts is New York which has 51 resorts. The following states only have 1 ski resort; Alabama, Maryland, Rhode Island and Tennessee.
WHY SKI OR SNOWBOARD IN THE USA
There are many reasons to choose the USA for your next ski or snowboard trip. The US is home to a large number of ski resorts that can be considered amongst the best in the world. The profile of resorts like Vail, Killington, Heavenly and Jackson Hole ensure that America is firmly on the map.
The USA offers a huge amount of choice and flexibility in terms of a ski vacation. There are huge resorts, in terms of terrain, with Park City in Utah being the largest. The USA is also home to a number of unique smaller resorts like Mt Bohemia which have a cult following.
It is possible to ski year round in the USA, with resorts like Mt Hood open for summer skiing and snowboarding and Mammoth in California open for a longer season.
USA SKI RESORT SNOW RECORD
If you are looking for guaranteed powder days then a ski trip to the USA could be just what the powder Dr ordered. Utah is home to number of ski resorts that regularly receive over 12m of annual snowfall! That is Japan kind of crazy snowfall.
Sadly, although it has a cult following skiing the East Coast of the US offers less reward in terms of snowfall. There are some incredible East Coast ski resorts but this side of the US is more renowned for ice then powder days.
MULTI RESORT PASSES USA
Unless you have been buried under a rock for the past few years, you will have heard of both the Ikon and the Epic Pass. There is some debate over whether these season passes are a good or bad thing for the ski industry in America.
From a selfish standpoint I used the Epic pass for a season that allowed me to ski in the US, Japan, Europe and i’d planned a Australia trip (before Covid curtailed that idea). That is well… pretty Epic. To be able to ski across a number of resorts in different countries and continents is a unique. The Epic and Ikon are great for being able to access a number of resorts at what I deem to be a pretty reasonable price.
Sadly, these passes also come with a large downside. Crowds. The Epic and Ikon passes have encouraged more people to purchase season passes and have raised the profile of a number of resorts. The increased profile and accessibility has led to crowds, especially at peak holiday periods or weekends.
Although many locals view Epic or Ikon as a negative, potentially bringing more crowds to the resort, these passes have also led to a huge effort to increase the quality of infrastructure. Many resorts on the passes have received upgrades to their lift system and lodges which leads to a greater overall experience.
There are a number of other combined ski passes in America such as the Mountain Collective or Indy Pass. These tend to offer a few days skiing or snowboarding across their member resorts.
THE US SKI SEASON
The ski season in the USA is pretty long with a number of resorts having extended seasons. It is not uncommon for US ski resorts to open in November and to have their closing weekend towards the end of April. A number of ski resorts in the USA have extended seasons that can run into June or July. Mammoth in California in particular being one of the last to close.
In addition to the long ski season in the USA, it is possible to ski throughout the summer. Oregan is home to Timberline which sells itself as the only year-round ski resort in North America. Timberline is popular with freestyle camps with a good terrain park set up. Another great summer ski or snowboard trip option is Beartooth Basin, Montana. Beartooth Basin is strange as it actually isn’t open during the winter months. This summer only ski resort only opens once the snow has been cleared from the access roads in May. Think of Beartooth Basin as small but steep summer skiing.
RESORT REVIEWS
USA GALLERY
USA VIDEOS
NORTHSTAR
HEAVENLY
KIRKWOOD
COST OF A USA SNOWBOARD TRIP
The cost of skiing and snowboarding in the USA is a complicated issue. From a European perspective a ski trip to the USA can seem very costly. In fact, out of the snowboarding I have completed across South America, Europe, Asia, Australasia and North America, US ski trips hurt the wallet the most. Even when compared to their nearest neighbour Canada a US ski trip is costly.
The main difference in price can be found in the lift tickets. Lift tickets in the USA can seem extortionate with some of the larger resorts charging hundreds of $ for a day pass. Purchasing an Epic or Ikon pass will significantly reduce these costs.
One positive of a US ski trip in terms of cost is your dining costs. I found that in South Lake Tahoe I was able to eat out for a reasonable price and still have a decent quality of meal. Similarly, having an Apres ski drink will set you back less in the US then it would in Europe.
PIN IT
Kirkwood Ski Resort Guide
Kirkwood California is probably the best ski resort you have never heard of. A real locals mountain tucked away from the crowds of South Lake Tahoe, Kirkwood is one for your ski and snowboard bucket list. With an incredible snow record and some impressively challenging terrain Kirkwood excels in pretty much every area.
Since joining the Epic pass revolution Kirkwood is growing in popularity and there are a number of locals who don’t like that. The resort is changing both in regards to facilities and popularity and before long I am sure that Kirkwood will cement it’s place as a must visit US ski resort. There is a purpose built village at the base of Kirkwood with lodging, restaurants, and bars. There are a number of newer accommodations being developed within a short walk of the lifts.
Despite all the developments, Kirkwood remains laid back. The lifts are slow but that’s ok because your legs will need the time to recover. I was drawn to Kirkwood to snowboard on ‘The Wall’ a popular run accessed by the famous number 10 chair. But in reality I enjoyed riding around the whole resort. From outstanding tree runs, perfect pistes, and big bumps Kirkwood is an all-rounder.
KIRKWOOD FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Turning into Kirkwood the goosebumps had already started. Snow was falling and there were only a few cars in the car park. Walking through the village there was a calm to the place. No one was rushing, despite the fact that it was a powder day and the lifts were about to start turning. I guess the locals knew there was enough to go around.
KIRKWOOD SKI AREA
Kirkwood Ski Resort is blessed with some pretty awesome terrain. 80+ trails offer plenty of variety and ensure there is always something new to ride. The terrain is heavily biased in favour of expert skiers or snowboarders however there is a designated beginners area and some fun intermediate terrain. Kirkwood has everything an expert skier or snowboarder would want with wide bowls and fantastic tree skiing. There are a number of natural terrain features such as cornices and couloirs to keep things interesting.
The frustrating thing about Kirkwood ski resort is the lift system. There are 13 lifts but only a few actually access the highest terrain on the mountain. Chair 4, 6 and 10 alongside the Vista T-Bar offer the best access to advanced terrain. The layout of Kirkwood and its lift system can mean that long traverses are needed to get to different parts of the resort.
I personally had a lot of fun from Number 4 Chair. The hike from the top of Sunrise to Cold Shoulder and Larry’s Lip being particularly fun. The Vista T-Bar also accesses some short but challenging double black diamond’s.
It is hard to talk about the Kirkwood ski area without mentioning Number 10 chair and The Wall. The Wall is a pretty imposing double black diamond that overlooks the Kirkwood mountain village. The access chairlift for the wall has a famous skull and crossbones warning sign notifying you that it is expert only. The Wall is good fun after heavy snowfall and if you like big bumps.
Another favourite was the traverse into Sentinel Bowl deem Number 6 Chair. Although the traverse itself was fairly dull, the terrain in Sentinel Bowl is well worth it. There were plenty of interesting tree runs to explore in tis area.
KIRKWOOD SKI AREA BY ABILITY
BEGINNERS TERRAIN KIRKWOOD
Honestly, I would not recommend Kirkwood as a beginners ski resort. There is only a small amount of Green terrain which will see you repeating runs until they become tedious. The beginners area, Timber Creek, is away from the main runs, so at least that gives beginners a quiet place to learn.
INTERMEDIATE TERRAIN KIRKWOOD
Similar to beginners there isn’t much in the way of intermediate terrain at Kirkwood. What there is though is really fun. Runs like Elevator Shaft and Devil’s Draw give you the opportunity to nip in and out of the trees whereas pistes like Lower Zachery are wide and well groomed. Kirkwood could be a great resort for intermediates to take their first turns in the trees.
ADVANCED TERRAIN KIRKWOOD
This is where Kirkwood comes into its own. There is such a great variety of advanced terrain at Kirkwood that you can always find a challenge. The tree skiing is excellent and the bowls offer opportunities to drop some nice ledges or navigate through rocky outcrops.
LIFTS AT KIRKWOOD
Kirkwood’s lift system is far from a reason to visit. Behind the times in many ways the lift system is probably one of the things that keeps Kirkwood quiet. The interesting terrain at Kirkwood is accessed via fairly slow fixed grip chairs that ensure you get a rest between runs. Honestly I am torn. Quicker lifts and Kirkwood probably gets buried in crowds and loses its charm… small price to pay?
KIRKWOOD SNOW RECORD
Kirkwood is blessed when it comes to annual snowfall with it regularly receiving over 15m throughout the season. The quality of the snow is pretty decent as well especially when compared to other Californian ski resorts that have lower base and summit elevations. Kirkwood ski resort doesn’t really do snow-making… well why would it need to?
KIRKWOOD PISTE MAP
SEASON DATES
The ski season at Kirkwood runs from late November until the third week of April with snow permitting. In California you can ski at Squaw or Mammoth for longer… but then is it as good?
KIRKWOOD LIFT TICKETS
Buying a day pass for Kirkwood is $109 which isn’t cheap. If you are planning a multi-day trip or plan to ski at other resorts during the season then it is worth considering the Epic Pass or one of the local Epic Value passes. An Epic Pass costs $979 at full value although discounts are normally available if purchased early. This means just 9 days of use to break even when compared to equivalent day passes.
KIRKWOOD VIDEOS
TRAVEL TO KIRKWOOD
WHERE IS KIRKWOOD?
Kirkwood Mountain Resort is a 45 minute drive from South Lake Tahoe if you are already in the area or a 3 hr drive from San Francisco. Because of the extreme amounts of snow that Kirkwood receives this can affect the conditions on the road. You will find the latest road information here but it is important to be prepared for winter driving conditions.
Beware GPS
During the winter certain roads in California close due to the winter conditions. Mormon Emigrant Trail may show as your fastest route however this road is not accessible during winter.
HOW TO GET TO KIRKWOOD
INTERNATIONAL
If arriving internationally you will be best served to fly into San Francisco International Airport. From San Francisco, you can continue your journey by either taking an internal flight to Reno or take the 3-hour drive to South Lake Tahoe straight from San Francisco. It is also possible to fly into Sacramento but you will have to connect via another US airport.
DOMESTIC
An internal flight to Reno will bring you to your closest access point to the South Lake Tahoe Ski Resorts, but realistically you will still require car hire to get you the 1.5hr from Reno to Kirkwood ski area.
KIRKWOOD ACCOMMODATION
Kirkwood has its own village at the base. At Kirkwood you will find all sorts of hotels, condos and cabins. Consider using the link to look for your Kirkwood Accommodation.
KIRKWOOD PROS
Kirkwood ski resort has a really nice variety of terrain with challenging runs for experts as well as mellow beginners pistes
The Kirkwood snow record is insane! Kirkwood regularly receives more snow than the majority of ski resorts in the world
Kirkwood is generally quieter then other Tahoe ski areas. This shows itself in a really laid back vibe.
Kirkwood has a purpose built village that allows you to stay close to the slopes.
Free parking available in certain Kirkwood car parks
KIRKWOOD CONS
Lifts at Kirkwood can run slow which can put off many visitors
Kirkwood has a quiet village with few Apres opportunities.
KIRKWOOD GALLERY
KIRKWOOD FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
IS KIRKWOOD PART OF LAKE TAHOE
Kirkwood Mountain Resort is located in South Lake Tahoe, California. Kirkwood is around 45 minutes drive from the Lake Tahoe itself.
IS KIRKWOOD GOOD FOR BEGINNERS?
If you are a never ever taking your first turns for a day or two… yes, there is a designated beginners area at Kirkwood Mountain Resort. However the lack of beginner terrain in general means that Kirkwood is not the best option for beginner skiers or snowboarders
IS KIRKWOOD A DIFFICULT MOUNTAIN?
Kirkwood ski resort has some pretty gnarly terrain. There is a great variety to the advanced terrain at Kirkwood, meaning you don’t need to be doing anything crazy to find a challenge. However if you want to drop-in of a cornice or to navigate a narrow couloirs you can. The majority of terrain at Kirkwood is steep and mostly ungroomed, this can add to the intensity of the terrain.
DOES KIRKWOOD MAKE SNOW?
Kirkwood doesn’t need to make snow as it gets such a good natural snow fall. Kirkwood has a long season due to its snow record, but some snowmaking is in place to ensure that the beginning and end of the season conditions remain epic.
DOES KIRKWOOD HAVE TUBING?
There isn’t much in the way of off-snow activities at Kirkwood however the tubing hill is perfect for families looking for a break from skiing and snowboarding. Bonus about tubing at Kirkwood is there is a rope tow to help you get back to the top.
IS KIRKWOOD GOOD?
Crazy question. Kirkwood is genuinely one of the best ski resorts I have visited. LOVE IT!
HOW LONG IS THE KIRKWOOD SKI SEASON?
Kirkwood regularly opens for winter operations in November and closes in April!
GET IN TOUCH
Thanks for reading this Kirkwood ski resort guide and I hope it has answered many of your questions. I’ve given my opinion but I’d love to hear from you in the comments or via the socials. Have you been to Kirkwood ski resort? What were your opinions? Are there better ski resorts in Lake Tahoe?
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