There's a particular feeling that hits you the first time you realise you've skied from France into Switzerland without ever taking your skis off. No border check, no passport stamp, just a change in the shape of the roofs below you and the sudden appearance of chocolate adverts on the piste-side cafés. That's Les Portes du Soleil for you, an expansive ski area that covers 12 ski areas across the Swiss French border.
PORTES DU SOLEIL FIRST IMPRESSIONS
If you have not visited the Portes Du Soleil before, then here is the short version. One of the world’s largest interlinked ski areas that stitches together ten ski resorts via pistes and lift access, alongside an additional two ski areas which are included on the pass but not physically connected to the main ski arena. In total, this means that the Portes Du Soleil offers a claimed 580kms of slopes and over 160 lifts across the combined ski area. All of this, spread across some incredible village bases that range from purpose built mega resorts to quieter Savoyard villages. The Portes Du Soleil is kind of like an all you can eat buffet, there is so much on offer, but ultimately are your eyes bigger than your stomach or will you beast it all.
WHERE TO STAY
Before picking where to stay, it is worth noting that your base will determine the overall vibe of your Portes Du Soleil ski trip. With this in mind, it helps to understand how the area is knitted together. The whole network spans Abondance, Avoriaz, Châtel, La Chapelle d'Abondance, Les Gets, Montriond, Morzine, St Jean d'Aulps, Champéry, Morgins, Torgon, and Val-d'Illiez (with Les Crosets and Champoussin) twelve names to remember, though in practice most visitors settle into one of five or six main bases and ski out from there.
Realistically, the French side does the heavy lifting on terrain and lift infrastructure, while the Swiss side rewards you with quieter pistes, better views back over the valley, and a noticeably different vibe once you cross over. I'd budget at least a week if you want to properly explore both.
Avoriaz: The One Everyone Talks About
Avoriaz is the beating heart of the Portes du Soleil, and it's the resort I'd point most people toward if they only had one base to choose. Sitting around 600m above Morzine, Avoriaz is a snow-sure resort reached by gondola from Morzine, Prodains, or Les Lindarets. The snow-sure nature of Avoriaz makes it by far the most reliable village in the Portes Du Soleil to guarantee early and late season snow.
The village of Avoriaz has slightly odd, angular timber-clad architecture and the village like Saas Fee, is genuinely car-free. The Avoriaz experience is a good one, with modern facilities like the Wellness Centre and plenty of options for an Apres Ski pint. The downside for some is that staying in Avoriaz means you are disconnected from the regular world facilities that could make your trip cheaper… for example driving to the local supermarket isn’t an option. That being said, opting for an Avoriaz stay means, great snow, ski in ski out accommodation, and a fantastic base to explore other Portes Du Soleil ski areas.
What makes Avoriaz special for me is the terrain access. Avoriaz sits at the heart of the network, directly linked to Morzine and Les Gets in France and to Champéry, Les Crosets, and Champoussin in Switzerland, which means you can genuinely spend a full week without skiing the same run twice. For anyone who rides park, this is also snowboarding pedigree territory with Avoriaz home to six separate snowparks, including what's recognised as Europe's first freestyle park and The Stash! If you're after a challenge, don't skip the infamous Swiss Wall and the Chavanette sector. I was very much humbled by the Swiss Wall… but to be fair, I watched a lot of other skiers also get humbled by the Walls imposing moguls.
MORZINE: THE ALL-ROUNDER
Morzine was the first place I stayed in the Portes Du Soleil and this is no suprise as it is the traditional base for a lot of UK skiers. There are some good reasons why Morzine is so popular with Brits, firstly its a proper town with a proper ski resort nightlife. Morzine is popular with the younger crowd and as a year round destination it is also home to a decent expat community. That being said, Morzine retains a genuine French feel that Avoriaz, for all its charm, doesn't quite have.
Visitors to Morzine should be mindful of its location as it sits lower in the valley, so check conditions before committing early or late season, but the trade-off is a livable, characterful town with year-round appeal rather than a resort that shuts down completely come April. In the video below I visited Morzine during the Easter school holidays and it wasn’t a particularly great snow year… but with access to Avoriaz I was able to get high and escape these conditions when I wanted.
FIND YOUR TRANSFER
LES GETS: FAMILY-FRIENDLY & UNDERRATED
Les Gets is a smaller, family-friendly resort that shares its slopes with Morzine, together forming the largest interconnected network within the area. Les Gets is know for its tree-lined pistes that are pretty and varied. Les Gets is best suited to intermediates, though there's a reasonable beginner area too. Similar to Morzine, Les Gets sits at a lower altitude and therefore the season here is shorter. Those planning to get the most out of basing themselves in Les gets should consider mid-winter visit over an early or late-season punt. If you do get caught short with bad snow, remember that Avoriaz is accessible and can save your holiday.
Top Tip: Those travelling with kids or nervous beginners in the group, should consider heading to Les Gets. They will have a more relaxed time, with less crowded slopes whilst still getting to enjoy some fantastic scenery.
CHÂTEL: THE QUIET BRIDGE TO SWITZERLAND
Châtel can be considered a key link between French and Swiss resorts in the Portes Du Soleil. There are two separate sectors, one links across to Avoriaz on the French side, the other connects to the Swiss resorts of Morgins and Torgon, though that second sector sits outside the main interconnected circuit. Staying in Châtel is a good shout if you want a genuinely French village feel without sacrificing access to the wider area. Châtel is also a great shout for stays during peak weeks as it tends to feel noticeably quieter than Avoriaz or Morzine at peak times. Châtel is also worth considering if you like freestyle terrain as it is home to a modest snowpark that is great for honing your craft before heading to the bigger parks in Avoriaz.
CHAMPÉRY: SWITZERLANDS POSTCARD VILLAGE
Cross the invisible line into Switzerland and the whole character of the trip changes. Champéry is an authentic Swiss village known for its chocolate-box chalets and scenery, prioritising picture-postcard charm over out-the-door ski convenience. To reach the slopes you'll need the cable car up to Planachaux or a bus but this is the price you pay for the charm of a Champéry stay. It's a small trade-off for what I still think is the prettiest base in the whole area, and it's worth the extra faff at least once during your trip.
MORGINS, LES CROSETS, CHAMPOUSSIN, AND TORGON: THE QUIET CORNERS
These smaller Swiss outposts are where the crowds thin out completely. A long red run drops all the way from the higher sectors down to Champéry, and from Mossettes a long blue run reaches out toward Morgins and Champoussin, just keep an eye on the clock, because missing the last lift back into France from the Swiss side means an expensive taxi home. Torgon in particular is often overlooked, reachable from the Châtel sector, and rewards the effort with empty pistes and genuinely stunning views from the Morclan summit. If you've done the big names and want a day away from the crowds, this is where I'd point my board.
ABONDANCE AND ST JEAN d’AULPS: THE RESORTS ON THE PASS BUT NOT THE PISTE MAP
Worth knowing about even if you never ski them: Abondance and St Jean d'Aulps are both included on the Portes du Soleil lift pass but aren't physically connected by lift or piste to the other ten resorts. St Jean d'Aulps in particular is a quiet, standalone area just a 20-minute drive from Morzine, a genuine hidden gem if you've got a car and fancy a day away from the main circuit entirely.
I have stayed in St Jean d’Aulps as a quieter alternative to the busier villages in the past. Having a car was important as the bus service, although possible, wasn’t regular enough to make using it worthwhile. As a base, there was a nice feeling about the village with local bars and a beautiful walk alongside the river. Worth a thought if you are on a self-drive holiday.
PORTES DU SOLEIL SKI AREA
With such a large ski area and the variety that comes with such an expanse of terrain the Pores Du Soleil is a ski area that rightly holds a premiere spot on the world stage. Smaller than The Three Valleys (600km), but larger than the world renowned 4 Vallées (412km), Matterhorn ski paradise (360km), and Paradiski (425km) the PDS really does pack a punch. In fact, the resorts of the Portes Du Soleil offer skiers over double the skiable terrain of one of my favourite multi-resort ski areas, the Grand Massif (265km).
For those statistics driven, 580kms of pistes, over 200 ski lifts and over 8m of annual snowfall (in Avoriaz), the PDS is one to check out. In reality, although the Portes Du Soleil is an impressive ski area it does also, like many resorts, have its pitfalls. Lower elevations in some parts of the PDS combined with the recent trend in warmer winters has meant a change of feel to early and late season here. Therefore, booking for mid-season has become something not just to consider but a priority in many parts of the PDS.
From staying/skiing in many parts of the Portes Du Soleil I feel that this ski area is really the sum of all of its parts. There is no particular area that I feel YOU HAVE TO SKI HERE, but together the ski area is impressive. For example, I loved Avoriaz for the terrain parks, The Stash is impressive, La Chappelle park great for learning and the larger park below Les Hauts-Forts is impressive and made for a great long lap, but away from the parks I wasn’t blown away. Of course, you have the challenge and prestige of THE SWISS WALL! But actually, a lot of terrain here was fairly mellow. In terms of Morzine, I loved the long reds from the Pointe De Nyon, but most of the terrain near the village itself suffers from below par snow. Whereas Châtel offered quiet slopes, but less of the grandeur of the imposing rock face in Avoriaz. Join, these resorts together and they produce some special.
Another feather in the cap of the Portes Du Soleil are the smooth links between the main ski areas on the pass. Yes, St-Jean d’Aulps and Abondance, require seperate access but the main resorts are all interconnected by lifts. This means that you have a huge ski area without the need for a car. When compared to the faff of getting buses between resorts in the Hakuba Valley, life in the PDS seems pretty simple.
The main sell for a Portes Du Soleil ski holiday has to be that the terrain offers something for everyone. Many families or friendship groups who will have skiers of varying abilities will appreciate this. The real expert freeriders, may find the area lacking but for everyone else, it is hard to argue with what is on offer here.
If you are lucky enough to experience a powder day here, consider leaving the busier French side in search of turns in Switzerland where Chamoussin has delivered for me in the past.
PORTES DU SOLEIL SNOW RECORD
Snowfall across the Portes du Soleil is impressively consistent thanks to its high-altitude lifts and north-facing slopes, delivering a reliable base from late November through March and frequent fresh powder through January and February; lower villages get less early-season coverage, so the best time to visit for guaranteed snow and optimal lift access is mid-January to late February when storms, cold temps, and groomed runs combine for sustained conditions and excellent off-piste opportunities.
PORTES DU SOLEIL PROS AND CONS
PROS
The Portes Du Soleil is one of the largest combined ski areas in the world. There is therefore plenty of terrain to keep everyone happy regardless of ability.
Areas of the Portes Du Soleil are prone to great snowfall. Avoriaz is snowsure and allows for stress-free holiday booking.
There are plenty of Lift Pass options available for visitors to the Portes Du Soleil. The whole area pass is reasonable, but equally, many skiers will benefit from the smaller local area passes if they do not intend to explore the whole PDS.
The Portes Du Soleil is a great place to learn. There is lots of choice for ski schools which means pricing remains competitive.
Proximity to Geneva means that transfers to / from the airport are quick, easy and regular.
For those who like ski-in-ski-out accommodation, this is available across some of the villages, whereas those who prefer a traditional village feel also have this option. The variety means there is plenty of experience.
CONS
Due to it’s popularity, skiing here can feel busy, try to avoid peak periods as queues can be … frustrating.
Resorts like Morzine can sometimes suffer from its lower elevation meaning snow quality isn’t always great.
Finding reasonable accommodation in the Portes Du Soleil is tough due to the popularity of the ski area. Booking early is advised to avoid high prices.
GETTING TO THE PORTES DU SOLEIL
The whole area sits around an hour and a half from Geneva, which makes it one of the easiest big ski areas in the Alps to reach for a long weekend as well as a full week. Most people heading to the PDS will arrive into Geneva although Chambéry is another good option. From Geneva transfer times are short, meaning an early morning flight could see you on the slopes later that afternoon.
Getting to the Portes du Soleil is straightforward whether you’re avoiding flying or prefer a greener route: the closest major train hubs are Geneva and Thonon-les-Bains on the French side, and Aigle and Monthey on the Swiss side, with frequent regional trains and local buses linking to key resorts such as Morzine, Avoriaz, Les Gets, and Champéry. From Geneva, take the regional train to Cluses or Thonon and then a bus or shuttle (many resorts run ski buses) for the final leg; Geneva also offers direct shuttle services to Morzine and Les Gets. If coming via the Swiss rail network, change at Aigle for the local line to Ollon or take the Monthey–Champéry train for direct access to the Swiss sector. For longer-distance rail travel, overnight sleeper services to Geneva or nearby Grenoble (with a connecting bus) are good alternatives to flying. Driving is another option, the A40 from France and well-signposted Swiss routes lead to multiple parking points, but check winter road conditions and local parking rules during high season. You will off-course need to have snow-chains available should you choose to drive.
KEY TAKEAWAYS ABOUT SKIING IN THE PORTES DU SOLEIL
When visiting the PDS, remember you are visiting one of the world’s largest ski areas. This comes with positives and considerations. Be mindful of lift closing times and planning your route back to your base area. The area consists of a good mix of terrain, including some really long cruisey intermediate terrain. Everyone, will love it here, but intermediates will benefit the most.
The cross-border factor is a real bonus of skiing and snowboarding in the Portes Du Soleil. Although closely linked, there is a difference in culture, atmosphere and vibe between the resorts in the PDS. Explore and make the most of this factor.
There is reliable snow cover in Avoriaz, but ensure if you are staying in one of the lower villages you consider the timing of your visit. Shit snow is shit snow… know when you are going.
Remember: the Portes du Soleil is less about a single “perfect run” and more about the freedom to roam across a huge, diverse alpine playground spanning two countries. Plan logistics, pick a good base, and savor the variety.