Off-Piste Etiquette: Where Is The Boundary?
Whether you love fresh corduroy in the morning or a park lap in the sun, there is one thing that unites all skiers and snowboarders… a powder day! Waking up in the morning to a fresh cover of snow is why so many people work minimum wage resort jobs but when the pistes are tracked out where we go next is often heated debate. Having snowboarded across the continents this is our take on where the boundaries lie.
ARGENTINA
The mountain environment in Argentina is pretty special. The Andes offer towering peaks and pretty harsh weather systems. These weather systems bring plenty of snow but also incredibly high-speed winds that can make the snowpack variable. At Cerro Catedral the freeriding opportunities were incredible and I have heard the same for many other South American resorts.
Cerro Catedrall offers the opportunity for easy access backcountry into La Laguna area and there is no boundary rope showing the laid-back attitude of the South American ski patrols. The Nubes area would close when the lift could not run due to high winds, but there was no barrier to those who would take the hike to the top. This means backcountry at Cerro Catedral and other South American ski resorts should not be taken lightly and you really should operate with caution and knowledge. With the lack of closures at Cerro Catedral, we often found ourselves asking questions and even walking away from a run after reaching the summit of a hike.
JAPAN
If there is one place in the world I had always wanted to experience snowboarding it was Japan. An absolute mecca for skiers and snowboarders, the amount of snow that Japanese resorts receive in a season shouldn’t be legal! With such regular snowfall, heading off-piste or into the backcountry needn't be high on your priority list, that is until you realize just how good tree riding is here in Japan.
Attitudes to off-piste in Japan are completely juxtaposed to what we Europeans are used to. For starters, some Japanese skiers and riders believe that the trees are home to spirits and it was believed these should be disturbed. This attitude resulted in many Japanese ski resorts roping off their tree runs and designating them as out of bounds.
Now I don’t know about you, but if I see an area of widely spaced trees with a carpet of fresh snow that is exactly where I want to be. Fortunately, Japanese ski resorts are starting to open these areas to budding powder hunters, although you may need to take a course to enter.
In Hakuba, these resorts offered off-piste skiing under the following conditions
Hakuba Cortina - No restrictions
Tsugaike Kogen - On completion of DBD course and only in gated areas
Hakuba Iwatake - In gated areas only
Hakuba 47 - On completion of the course and only in gated areas
Norikura Onsen - No Restrictions
Hakuba Goryu - Adventure course only
At least the few resorts not currently opening off-piste terrain to the public are blessed with an incredible snow record. That being said, with the number of Western tourists visiting Japan each year, it can’t be long before these resorts get with the times… Can it?
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NORTH AMERICA
North America is home to some great off-piste resorts with Canada’s powder triangle and America’s West Coast Resorts getting pounded with fresh powder. North American resorts tend to have groomed and ungroomed terrain. In effect, from a European perspective, I would not class it as off-piste.
You can feel pretty safe at all times in the knowledge that even the ungroomed terrain is patrolled, although be aware accidents do happen and it is again down to you to use your best judgment. It is pretty clear within both US and Canadian ski resorts that a rope means DO NOT CROSS and you do so risking not only your life but your lift privileges.
Ropes tend to mean that patrol is currently managing terrain and crossing could put you in range of dynamite, not something I’d advise. Resorts in Canada are starting to introduce gated areas, for example, Sunshine Village has Delerium Dive, but these are still the minority. If you want the true backcountry experience in North America you will have to leave the resort boundaries completely. Outside of the resort’s boundaries, you are in charge of your safety and there isn’t anybody coming to help you if things go array, not without paying huge fees anyway.
EUROPE
Oh Europe, the land of you can ski where you want but if you die don’t look at us culture. Europe pretty much offers freeriders exactly that, the freedom to ride. Do not get me wrong, in Europe, you will find ropes and closure signs however you have the freedom to cross them at your own risk.
Resorts like Verbier offer runs classed as Itineraries which are within the resort’s boundaries but are unmanaged. Normally a row of yellow poles will mark the route down an itinerary run but besides that, you are free to ride wherever you see a fresh turn.
WHY IS IT SO DIFFERENT IN EUROPE?
Well, I think it comes down to two main cultural aspects. Firstly from my experience, in Europe people are more likely to ski with an instructor or guide than in North America. This means Europeans are happy to hire an expert to make safety decisions for them.
Secondly, and linked to point one, by having a culture of hiring ski/snowboard instructors or guides Europeans also promote a culture of learning. This education culture promotes a strong sense of mountain etiquette and understanding of the risks which is not always prevalent when these decisions are made for you by ski patrol.
For this reason, I would urge caution when riding off-piste or backcountry routes in Europe. It is not uncommon to find a crevasse or other unmarked hazards between pistes so what could you find in the backcountry?
NEW ZEALAND
Similarly to North American resorts, in New Zealand, the Ski Patrol will let you know where the boundary is. Any area outside of the pisted terrain tends to be roped off but with gated access. The main difference I found when riding in New Zealand as compared to Canada was that at the gate you would occasionally find a patroller to give you a heads-up on the conditions. Mt Hutt, in particular, was great for this, with a Patroller normally sitting at the entrance to the lower towers informing people about the traverse. In the absence of a patroller, there would normally be a sign giving a rundown of recent conditions.
Leaving the resort boundary in New Zealand is similar to the European attitude… here is the information you need to know, now go and make smart decisions. If you choose to leave the resort boundary you are no longer covered by the protection of ski patrol. New Zealand resorts are small and with this in mind, you may want to explore outside the boundary lines. Outside of the resort’s boundaries terrain isn’t managed for avalanche danger (unless it could cause havoc on the access roads) so be sure to have the correct equipment and ride with a friend.
AUSTRALIA
Ok honestly, Australia is not being added to this list as a joke. Having spent time working Australian winters I know first-hand that Australian snowboarding can be really good. Although resorts are heavily reliant on snowmaking that does not mean there is no backcountry scene. Within the resorts, Australia is similar in approach to New Zealand and Europe. If you step out of the resort’s boundaries you do so at your own risk. Sometimes the best snow can be found outside of the resort’s boundary due to the high wind found at Australian resorts. This wind often blows snow, natural/man-made, out of bounds and into some pretty interesting gullies.
Check out the video below for some insight into Australian backcountry snowboarding.
CHINA
Heading out of bounds directly from the ski resort in China is a big no-no and not actually that exciting. With resorts tending to be purpose-built and with much focus on the inbounds experience, off-piste in China isn’t really a thing. There will be ropes and fences that are possible to cross in the resort, but the risk of losing your pass is rarely worth the rewards as runs are pretty short.
If you are heading to China instead opt for a backcountry tour. The mountains in China can rival anywhere in the world for terrain and the backcountry should be at the top of most people’s lists when visiting. Consider the Altai Mountains which border Mongolia offering some incredible peaks. Our advice is to travel with a guide, as amazing a country as China is, there are plenty of ways you can overstep the line and end up in trouble. Having a guide will help you stay safe both on snow and culturally.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Wherever your travels take you this year if you plan to venture off the groomers be sure to know the local attitudes. By understanding the local’s approach to backcountry you will be in a better place to make decisions that will keep you safe, but also on the right side of ski patrol. Knowing the local culture can inform your decisions with regard to the amount of support you will receive if you run into trouble. If you are heading through the gate and out of bounds, stay safe and ride with a friend.
