Five Best Ski Runs In Hakuba Valley
The Hakuba Valley is an area of Japan renowned for world-class skiing and snowboarding. Blessed with an average of 12m of snow per winter, it is no wonder that people flock from around the globe to experience Japanese powder conditions. In this post I share the five best ski runs in the Hakuba Valley.
With ten resorts included on one pass there is an expanse of terrain to choose from when heading to Hakuba. This means whittling all the options down to a list of the five best runs possible in Hakuba was a hard task. This list is based on my experience of snowboarding in Hakuba in Jan-Feb 2019 and my fondest memories of the trip. The runs I have selected are varied and I will fully explain my reasoning below.
5. TSUGAIKE DBD GATE 3
Tsugaike is nicknamed ‘powder heaven’ and this should tell you all you need to know. Geographically it is close to Hakuba Cortina but it doesn’t draw the same crowds despite receiving similar amounts of snow. This is most likely down to the restriction on tree riding at Tsugaike, requiring you to take a course to enter to the tree areas or DBD. There are four main gates into the Tsugaike DBD area and I enjoyed the lines through Gate 3 the most. Gate 3 provides a longer run than Gate 1 with a steeper incline but the same well spaced trees!
4. HAKUBA 47 TERRAIN PARK
When you think of a Japanese snowboard trip heading to the terrain park is not what comes to mind. Sadly not every day can be a powder day and Hakuba 47 offers another option to keep you entertained during your trip to Hakuba. The terrain park at Hakuba 47 is in my opinion the best in Hakuba. The layout is great with its own (fairly slow) chairlift, making park laps a fairly simple task. Hakuba 47 has Hakuba’s only half pipe at the top of the park which leads down to a choice of lines. Skiers and snowboarders can choose between simple ride-on boxes to large kickers and more advanced rail features.
3. CORTINA CHAIR 5 TREE RUN
Cortina was bound to feature in this list and it does twice, but the run from the number 5 chairlift might be a surprise entry to some. This is where I found some of my best and less contested turns in Cortina. With the crowds that flock to Cortina if you want to make the most of it you need to get away from the crowds. Number 4 chairlift accesses some great terrain but you can expect a 40 minute lift cue on a busy day. With this in mind the trees that are accessible from Number 5 chairlift are a great option. My advice is from the top of the chairlift go left, take a short traverse and then drop in. Most skiers and snowboarders go right of the chair meaning you can find untracked lines well into the afternoon. Whatever chairlift you use at Cortina will lead to widely spaced trees and copious amounts of JAPOW! Taking chairlift number 5 just means you don’t need to share.
2. SANOSAKA LAKE DOWN TRAIL
Sometimes good things come in small packages and Sanosaka is a prime example. Making the list at number two is my favourite non-powder day run in Hakuba, Lake Down Trail. It blows my mind how quiet this resort is and you can have the groomers to yourself all day. Lake down trail is a wide blue run offering great views of Lake Aoki. Stood at the top you have the option to take the groomed piste or go to skiers right where there is a pump track… as the run mellows out towards the chairlift, you will also find some small park features. This means in one run you can; take in a great view, carve a groomer, build up speed on the pump track, hit a jump, slide a rail and then head up for some more…. oh did I mention dogs are allowed? So be sure to keep an eye out for a furry friend.
1. CORTINA TO NORIKURA BACKCOUNTRY RUN
Hakuba Cortina not only has no restrictions on where you can tree ride but it is also linked to neighbouring resort Norikura Onsen Ski Resort. From the top of number 4 chairlift at Cortina, you can access a backcountry run that takes you between the two resorts and this was a highlight of my days at Cortina. As soon as you drop in you are met with perfectly spaced trees and a steep incline that make face shots a regular occurrence. The amount of snow combined with the terrain makes this a run I have not found elsewhere on my snowboard travels. You will want to gradually ride towards skiers left as this will take you towards Norikura resort where you will be able to head back up and do it all again.
Have you visited Hakuba? Do you have a favourite run? Let me know in the comments.
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Norikura Onsen Ski Resort Guide
Norikura or Norikura Onsen Ski Resort is one of the ten resorts included on the Hakuba Valley ski pass. Much less westernised than other ski resorts in the valley, Norikura feels a world away from Hakuba Village. You will not find any large chain rental shops or bustling restaurants at Norikura but you will discover an authentic Japanese skiing experience. Much quieter than the resorts of Happo or Goryu, it can feel like you have the resort to yourself which is always an incredible feeling.
HAKUBA NORIKURA ONSEN FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Arriving at Norikura feels a little different to arriving at the other Hakuba Valley resorts. To start with, if you are taking the free Hakuba Valley shuttle buses you will notice that most people stay on the bus and head to the neighbouring Hakuba Cortina ski resort. It is a strange feeling to arrive somewhere with a bus of 50 people and be the only person to get off! Once off the bus, you will not notice any major infrastructure other than the hotels at the base of the resort. You will walk straight off the bus and onto the chairlifts!
The second noticeable thing was the lack of crowds at Norikura. The majority of skiers and snowboarders appeared to be Japanese and I could count the western visitors I noticed on one hand. Once away from the base area, which has some mellow beginner slopes, don’t expect lift lines because there aren’t any!
HAKUBA NORIKURA ONSEN SKI AREA
Similar to most of the resorts in Hakuba you will not find a particularly large ski area at Norikura. With only 500m of vertical drop 1300m-800m and 14 trails, it’s a good job that Norikura is linked to its neighbour resort Cortina. The link to Cortina adds an additional 16 runs to the Norikura ski area which should be enough to keep most people occupied for a week of skiing or snowboarding, especially when you consider the amount of snow these resorts receive.
There is nothing particularly challenging about the terrain on the Norikura Onsen side with perhaps the most challenge to be found in the trees. The tree riding at Norikura is similar to Cortina in that it is open with skiers and snowboarders taking responsibility for their own riding in these areas. With 80% of the terrain marked as beginner or intermediate, those looking for a challenge should take the connecting lifts over to Hakuba Cortina where the runs are steeper. For those staying on the Norikura side, you will face less competition for your turns.
FREESTYLE TERRAIN NORIKURA ONSEN SKI RESORT
The ski area at Hakuba Norikura has a terrain park which features a good-sized half pipe. You will also find a border cross course and freestyle moguls set up. The freestyle terrain at Hakuba Norikura Onsen is minimal and if freestyle is your main interest you should consider visiting Hakuba 47 ski area.
BEGINNERS TERRAIN NORIKURA ONSEN SKI RESORT
If you are a beginner you will find that Norikura is a great place to learn and to have easy progression. There are some nice mellow runs just opposite the Hakuba Alps Hotel, near the bus stop, accessible from lift 1. Similarly, the green trail beneath the No. 6 chair will be enjoyable for beginners. A real perk of skiing or snowboarding at Norikura as a beginner is the lack of crowds. The runs at Norikura allow plenty of space to practice your turns without worrying about crashing into other skiers.
INTERMEDIATE TERRAIN NORIKURA ONSEN SKI RESORT
Norikura Onsen ski resort is great for intermediates looking to take their first steps into tree skiing. The tree runs here are widely spaced and lack the steepness found at neighbouring resorts. This combination makes tree skiing here less worrying and more enjoyable. Partner this with the copious amounts of snow received at Hakuba Norikura and this could be the perfect intermediate powder playground.
ADVANCED TERRAIN NORIKURA ONSEN SKI RESORT
The aptly named Expert course at Norikura is one of the few black trails on offer within the bounds of the resort. Just like other black ski trails at Norikura Onsen, the Expert Course is short and over in a flash. A real treat for expert skiers is the backcountry run between Hakuba Cortina and Norikura. This route can be lapped starting in Cortina and finishing at Norikura Onsen.
The nice thing about off-piste skiing at Norikura and the neighbouring Cortina ski resort is the lack of restrictions. A number of ski resorts in the Hakuba Valley require you to attend safety briefings (Tsugaike Kogen) or to register with ski patrol (Hakuba 47). This can be a bit… over the top when you compare the terrain you can access at European resorts without restrictions. The freedom to ski in the tree areas at Norikura and Cortina is perfect, especially on a powder day! Just be careful as the amount of snow you will encounter is probably much more than you are used to!
LIFTS AT NORIKURA ONSEN SKI RESORT
In what seems commonplace for Japanese ski resorts, Norikura has nearly as many lifts as trails. The nine total chairlifts are fairly basic and run at a mild speed without being overly slow. I guess the low vertical means you don’t spend too long riding the chairs.
No.3 and No.5 Pair lifts will offer the most challenge at Norikura Ski Resort. These chairs access the steeper terrain in the resort. Beginners will enjoy the terrain under the No.6 chair which offers mellow green ski trails back to the base area.
SNOW RECORD AT NORIKURA ONSEN SKI RESORT
The ski resort of Hakuba Norikura is situated to the North of the Hakuba Village close to Hakuba Cortina and Tsugaike Kogen. This end of the Hakuba Valley is best known for receiving the most snowfall and makes it the place to go for powder turns. If you are an experienced skier or snowboarder you should make the most of the linked ski pass that Norikura shares with Hakuba Cortina as this will allow you to make the most of the great tree skiing in the area.
NORIKURA PISTE MAP
SEASON DATES
The ski seasons at Hakuba Norikura typically runs between December and April with the best skiing found between the end of January and the end of February. It is during this period that Norikura receives massive amounts of snow fall. There is a reason they call it “Japanuary”.
TRAVEL TO NORIKURA
Where is Norikura Onsen
Norikura Onsen ski resort is in-between two of the most popular resorts in the Hakuba Valley. On one side is Tsugaike Kogen ski resort known for its DBD tree skiing area. On the other is Hakuba Cortina, which is close enough to be linked via chairlift to Norikura Onsen. This part of the Hakuba Valley receives the most amount of snow and it is here you will want to head for the best Japanese powder skiing.
How to get to Hakuba Norikura
Free shuttle buses run to Norikura via Tsugaike and Iwatake ski resorts. The buses do not run very frequently so you will have to check the most up-to-date timetable. On your way back to Hakuba village the bus will leave Cortina before reaching Norikura which can mean that seats are few and far between. The drivers try to save seats on a busy day.
NORIKURA ONSEN ACCOMMODATION
If you wanted a more relaxed feel for your Hakuba holiday you could base yourself in Norikura. The Hakuba Alps Hotel is at the base of the slopes and would represent a good ski-in ski-out option. Alternatively, there is lots of accommodation options in Hakuba village and really depends on your preferences and budget. I stayed in a guesthouse which was fairly basic but provided a space to cook, wash and sleep.
NORIKURA PROS
Norikura Onsen main selling point for me would be the lack of crowds. There is less waiting in line, less competition for first tracks and more room on the pistes.
Being a linked ski area Norikura and Cortina combine to make one of the larger ski areas in the Hakuba Valley. This means there is more terrain to keep you occupied without having to repeat the same runs.
The backcountry run between Hakuba Cortina and Norikura Onsen ranked number 1 in my Five Best Runs Hakuba Valley
The resorts of Tsugaike, Norikura and Cortina receive larger amounts of snow than the other Hakuba Valley ski resorts.
Free shuttles are available to Norikura Onsen Ski Resort from the Happo Bus Terminal
NORIKURA CONS
Although free shuttle buses connect Norikura to Happo Bus Terminal and the other Hakuba resorts, they do not run as frequently. This can make inter-resort travel a little tiresome.
No major challenge for advanced skiers or snowboarders meaning you could find yourself repeating certain runs.
NORIKURA VIDEOS
NEARBY SKI RESORTS
NORIKURA ONSEN FINAL THOUGHTS
Hakuba Norikura Onsen Ski Resort was great to visit for its more relaxed vibe and I found myself visiting the combined Cortina-Norikura ski area multiple times throughout my trip. Although by staying on the Norikura side you may sacrifice some challenge, I do feel it’s worth it for less competition for fresh snow.
Happo One Ski Resort Guide
Hakuba Happo One is Hakuba’s best-known resort. Centre stage for the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics, Happo helped bring Japanese ski resorts to the mainstream. Happo One is in the centre of a purpose-built village and has everything you would expect to find at a premiere ski resort.
If you are visiting Hakuba the purpose built-village surrounding the flagship resort Happo One has a plethora of accommodations, restaurants, ski shops and ski schools. This means for a lot of visitors, Happo will be their closest resort and where they base themselves for the duration of their stay. With multiple base areas, you can actually start your day at Happo from a number of entry points. Nakiyama is home to the local ski school and close to a number of local hire shops. Sakka is the most mellow area and will be where you find the most suitable beginner terrain. Whereas Shirakaba is the base of the main Gondola which will quickly move skiers to mid-mountain. Interestingly at Happo, you have to take a combination of lifts to get to the top meaning one top-to-bottom lap often consists of three lift rides to get back to the peak.
HAPPO ONE FIRST IMPRESSION
Arriving at Happo you soon see why it is the most popular ski resort in the Hakuba Valley. As you get closer to the village and ski lifts you are surrounded by everything you need for your snowboard trip. Each of the base areas is close to rental shops, accommodations and restaurants making Happo One the stress free Hakuba ski destination.
HAPPO ONE SKI AREA
Happo One ski resort is a relatively large resort by Japanese standards and this is one of the reasons people love it. A limited number of pistes doesn’t really tell the story and the resort is really much larger than its stats suggest. There are plenty of steep runs within its 1071m vertical drop, which draw advanced riders to the resort. But don’t be put off if steeps are not your thing, Happo is pretty diverse with four base areas. Nakiyama, Shirakaba, Kokusai and Sakka all offer something a little different and this is what makes Happo so versatile and popular with families.
Happo’s mellow slopes at Sakka will suit those working towards their first turns. Over the rest of the mountain, the wide red slopes are perfect for those looking to blast around. In addition to the groomers, you will find lots of mogul runs and of course the Olympic Downhill track! If backcountry is on your mind then head to the Grat Quad where you will find easy access backcountry within a short hike.
Happo represents the best one resort fits all for a Hakuba trip so if you don’t want to be busing to other resorts basing yourself at Happo is a good option. Additionally, if you don’t want the day to stop head to Nakiyama slopes for some night skiing.
BEGINNER TERRAIN AT HAPPO ONE
There is ample terrain to get beginners moving and exploring the mountain at Happo. Sakka base area is where you will find the majority of beginner runs, although it is worth noting that the green at Nakiyama slope is open for night skiing!
INTERMEDIATE TERRAIN AT HAPPO ONE
Intermediate skiers and snowboarders will love Happo One. There are a number of interesting pistes in addition to the little areas of sidecountry to play in. I enjoyed the long run from the top of the resort down to Nakiyama slope.
ADVANCED TERRAIN HAPPO ONE
Happo hosted the slalom at the Nagano Olympics so the Olympic course is a must for advanced skiers and snowboarders. The Olympic course gives you the opportunity to blast downhill trying to leave your mates in your wake. Additionally, Happo has a number of steep black-graded groomers that are excellent, especially first thing in the morning. For those with the inclination for bumps, you will find plenty of good mogul runs especially if there has been a break in snowfall.
OFF-PISTE AT HAPPO ONE
Sadly, as is common amongst Japanese ski areas, there are a number of closed areas at Happo. This really limits the amount of tree-riding or off-piste you can do here without risking your lift pass in the process. Happo One ski resort has opened an in-bounds tree skiing area but its barely worth it as it is short and gets tracked out rather quickly.
Where Happo excels is the backcountry runs that are accessible from the top of Grat chairlift. Happos highest lift point helps provide access to a series of steep faces that will keep the most avid backcountry snowboarder happy. The local ski schools offer guiding services here which are recommended if you are not familiar with the area.
HAPPO ONE SNOW RECORD
Similarly to the rest of the Hakuba Valley, Happo One gets more than its fair share of snow. Happo One’s location helps draw in 11m of average seasonal snowfall. The snow quality, especially at the top of the resort, is excellent. Happo has a large vertical drop so its lower slopes can suffer towards the end of the season.
LIFTS AT HAPPO ONE
The lift infrastructure at Happo One is a bit strange. 23 lifts in total but it is likely that you will need to take a combination of these lifts to get to the area you wish to ski. There is a gondola and some faster lifts since upgrades but there are also sluggish lifts! Being a popular resort you can find lift queues at Happy especially during holiday or weekend periods.
HAPPO ONE VIDEOS
HAKUBA HAPPO ONE GALLERY
HAPPO ONE PROS
Happo One has backcountry within a short hike
Easy access from the village and main accommodation hubs makes Happo One incredibly accessible
Free shuttles from Happo One to take you to other Hakuba resorts
Happo One has steeper terrain than most Hakuba resorts
Happo One offers fantastic views across the Hakuba valley
Happo One is a great resort for families with a range of terrain so great family resort
HAPPO ONE CONS
Happo One is prone to lift cues caused by a combination of Happo’s popularity and relatively slow lift cues.
Due to the larger crowds at Happo One, if you are looking for first tracks look to another Hakuba ski resort.
Happo closes most of the terrain that may appeal to the more adventurous skiers and snowboarders.
TRAVEL TO HAPPO
Travel to Happo is easy from any resort base in Hakuba via the free shuttles that regularly run between the resorts. The main access to Happo One is via Adam gondola which is west of Hakuba town but there are a number of bases. Due to it’s popularity the shuttles to and from Happo One tend to be full so be prepared to cue or travel outside of peak hours.
ACCOMMODATION AT HAPPO
Accommodation near Happo One ski resort is plentiful and really depends on your preferences and budget. I stayed in a fairly basic guesthouse but it was comfortable and provided a space to cook, wash and sleep. Hakuba caters for all budgets and comfort levels so check out the whole range of Hakuba accommodation by using the search below.
FINAL THOUGHTS ON HAPPO ONE
As previously stated Happo One is probably the best all-rounder in terms of Hakuba ski resorts. Happo One caters perfectly for groups or families with differing abilities. The international crowd will appreciate the amenities and shops that lie close to the Happo’s base areas.
Hakuba Iwatake Ski Resort Review
Iwatake ski resort is a popular Hakuba Valley resort that is fantastic for intermediate and beginner riders. On my visit to Hakuba Iwatake, I was impressed by the wide cruisey blue runs and the mellow gated tree riding. On a clear day, the views from Iwatake are meant to be pretty impressive… unfortunately I didn’t get a clear day at Iwatake. One issue that Iwatake faces is its lower elevation and base area can mean that when it is snowing at other Hakuba resorts it can be raining at Iwatake. That being said Iwatake still gets its fair share of the snow and there are some great powder stashes to be found.
Hakuba Iwatake Base Area
IWATAKE SKI RESORT FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Arriving at Iwatake via shuttle bus you are dropped at the base of Noah Gondola. From here you can see a chairlift to the skier’s left which accesses a fairly decent beginner’s run that would be a good gradient for learning your first turns. Around the gondola base area, there are a few ski shops, accommodations and food vans that mean Iwatake is a fairly decent place to base yourself for a trip to Hakuba. When heading up the gondola it’s easy to see why intermediates love Iwatake, in each direction, you can see wide-open pistes and on my visits very limited crowds (potentially due to the weather).
IWATAKE SKI AREA
As previously mentioned Iwatake is lower than the other resorts in the Hakuba valley with a summit of 1,289m. This coupled with a rather pitiful 539m vertical drop (less than Thredbo in Australia) means that Iwatake is a fairly small ski resort. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing as Iwatake has some decent infrastructure with fast chairs that means although laps may be short, you can get multiple runs in rather quickly. In total, there are 26 courses at Iwatake with the majority of this terrain being beginner or intermediate terrain. There is only 20% of the piste map assigned as advanced terrain but there is nothing to really get the heart pumping.
SNOWBOARDING FOR BEGINNERS IWATAKE
Iwatake has a number of trails suitable for beginners with an international ski school offering instruction in English. The gradients at Iwatake are much more mellow than nearby Happo One or Goryu so beginners may feel less intimidated here. It is possible for beginners to access ski runs at the top of Iwatake without the need to ride to the base area. If beginners choose to, it is possible to down lift on the Noah gondola at the end of the day. At the base area, there is a green run that has its own chairlift, this would be my starting point as a beginner.
SNOWBOARDING FOR INTERMEDIATES IWATAKE
Iwatake is probably best suited to intermediate skiers and snowboarders. The groomed terrain across the mountain is generally wide and not too steep. Some of the runs at Iwatake are an amalgamation of other runs with a combination of colour ratings. The tree zones at Iwatake are open without requiring a course and offer some fun riding on mellower pitches.
SNOWBOARDING FOR ADVANCED IWATAKE
Iwatake ski resort has a designated off-piste tree skiing zone called The View. Japanese ski resorts take a pretty firm stance to riding outside of designated off-piste areas so be prepared to lose your pass for doing so. Sticking to The View and you will be fine with this area monitored by the Iwatake ski patrol. In all honesty, advanced skiers and snowboarders will likely get bored rather quickly at Iwatake with other Hakuba Valley ski areas offering more challenge.
FREESTYLE TERRAIN AT IWATAKE
Iwatake does have a terrain park that may be of interest to freestyle-inspired riders. The Iwatake terrain park has a number of jumps (various sizes) and some basic rails. The terrain park at Iwatake is serviced by its own two-person chairlift although this runs pretty slow.
LIFTS AT HAKUBA IWATAKE
Hakuba Iwatake ski resort has 8 chair ifts and a gondola. The Noah gondola at the base of the resort is the main access point to the rest of the ski area. The rest of the lifts at Iwatake are either Quads or Doubles, none of which are particularly speedy.
Lift queues at Iwatake ski resort are reserved for the weekend and peak periods. As more people learn about the Hakuba Valley the resort of Iwatake is becoming more popular and its location close to Happo doesn't help when avoiding crowds.
HAKUBA IWATAKE PISTE MAP
IWATAKE SKI RESORT PROS
Iwatake is perfectly spaced in between Happo One and Tsugaike which makes it really easy to visit for a day trip
Wide groomers at the Iwatake ski area will mean that intermediates will love riding around this resort.
Four gated tree areas are available to ski at Iwatake which is a nice step in comparison to other Hakuba resorts that close their tree areas.
Free shuttles run regularly to Iwatake from the Happo Bus Terminal and the train station
IWATAKE SKI RESORT CONS
Iwatake has a small vertical drop meaning the runs can be quite short.
Iwatake is rather low and its lower elevation can mean the quality of snow is not as good as at other Hakuba resorts.
TRAVEL TO IWATAKE SKI RESORT
Free shuttle buses run to Iwatake from both the train station and Happo bus terminal. The buses to Iwatake are probably amongst the more frequent as Iwatake is positioned between Happo One and Tsugaike.
Iwatake is under 5km from the Hakuba train station meaning connecting bus journeys take less than 10 minutes to reach the ski resort. There are plenty of regular bus services that run between Iwatake and other Hakuba ski areas; Tsugaike, Happo, Goryu, Hakuba 47 as well as to the Hakuba base area.
ACCOMMODATION AT IWATAKE
Basing yourself at Hakuba Iwatake would be a good option if you wanted a quieter base away from the main Happo Village but within a short bus or taxi ride. Iwatake accommodation would allow you quick access to most resorts in the Hakuba Valley. Alternatively, there are lots of accommodation options in Hakuba village and really depends on your preferences and budget. I stayed in a guesthouse which was fairly basic but provided a space to cook, wash and sleep.
If you are staying in one of the villages at the base of Iwatake you will need to access the resort via train or bus. It is possible to get a bus from Tokyo that directly passes Iwatake. Alternatively, a train to the Hakuba train station followed by a bus or transfer to your accommodation is recommended.
FINAL THOUGHTS ON HAKUBA IWATAKE
Unfortunately, on both my visits to Hakuba Iwatake ski resort, I wasn’t blessed with great weather. I was still able to have fun cruising around the wide pistes but the further down towards the base you went, the snow quality deteriorated. Iwatake location was great and because of the frequent buses, I was able to change resorts once I figured conditions would not improve. On a good day, I can see why people would enjoy visiting Iwatake, especially those who are looking to progress from the greens to the blues.