Verbier Ski Resort Review — Simon Jack Burgess

SWITZERLAND IS RENOWNED FOR WORLD-CLASS SKI RESORTS, BUT VERBIER AND THE 4 VALLEES COULD BE THE GEM IN SWITZERLAND’S CROWN. WITH AN INCREDIBLE 410KM OF PISTES THE 4 VALLEES IS THE LARGEST COMBINED SKI AREA IN SWITZERLAND. HOST TO THE FREERIDE WORLD TOUR AND WITH SNOWBOARDERS LIKE XAVIER DE LA RUE OFTEN FOUND ON ITS SLOPES, VERBIER IS A BIG MOUNTAIN DESTINATION WITH DIVERSE TERRAIN.

VERBIER FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Walking up to the gondola there is a large screen advertising the Freeride World Tour, this is an indication of the terrain on offer at Verbier. Home to a number of professional skiers and snowboarders, Verbier is a kind of pilgrimage for freeride skiers and snowboarders looking to explore the high Swiss Alps. Taking the initial ride on the gondola and assessing the slopes from this vantage point you soon realise that Verbier is vast and its going to take a long time to explore.

Easy to access due to its proximity to Geneva, Verbier attracts a mixed crowd. Close enough for the weekend warriors from Geneva, lavish enough for the high-end market attracting a certain class of clientele but renowned enough to attract the ski bum in hunt of some awesome terrain.

VERBIER SKI AREA

The ski area of Verbier is the premier ski resort in the 4 Vallées combined ski area. Linking the ski resorts of La Tzoumaz, Nendaz, Versonnaz, and Thyon with Verbier and Bruson, the area covers 410km of pistes. This makes the ski domain of the 4 Vallées the largest in Switzerland and one of the largest in the world.

Where Can I Ski-In Verbier?

Having 410km accessible from one lift pass is pretty special but it’s the range of terrain that makes the 4 Vallées stand out. Beginners will feel at home in the Les Esserts area where access to a button lift and two magic carpets can help them find their feet. I really enjoyed the terrain park, which even had an airbag to practice those inverted tricks! That being said a trip to Verbier wouldn’t be a trip to Verbier without completing some itinerary runs (marked yellow on the map) as an introduction to the incredible off-piste. If you want to venture further, there is plenty of scope for some serious freeride runs with a number of guiding operations available to show you the area.

It’s worth noting that when it snows competition for first tracks in Verbier can be substantial so be prepared to get out early to make the most of it. If fighting crowds isn’t for you then head to Bruson. During my visit, we were able to lap tree runs here all day without competition. This may have changed due to the instalment of a new gondola.

Verbier For Experienced Skiers and Snowboarders

Verbier’s terrain is expansive and varied and is European big mountain skiing at its best. If you are an experienced skier or snowboarder you should aim to explore the itineraries. Itineraries are a cross between piste and off-piste skiing. The ski patrol will control these areas for avalanche hazards and mark them with piste poles, but that is the extent of their role. These runs are left unpisted for the whole season, forming natural terrain that varies depending on the conditions and time in the season. This means, after fresh snowfall the itineraries are a great place to explore and grab your fresh tracks. If you are in search of large moguls, the itineraries are fantastic for these as well. Just wait until a few days after fresh snow and you will have your mogul field to enjoy to your knees discontent.

The terrain park in Verbier is pretty good, although queues on the lifts can become frustrating. The terrain park shares chairlifts with the beginner terrain and this can cause a hold-up. When it’s quieter there are plenty of features to keep most freestyle snowboarders or skiers happy.

My favourite area whilst in Verbier was over in Bruson. I visited before the gondola was installed so now it is easier to access. Bruson was great for avoiding the crowds but more importantly, a pretty decent amount of tree-skiing can be found here.

Verbier for Intermeditate Skiers and Snowboarders

Intermediates will want to get exploring and make the most of their trip to Verbier and the 4 Vallees but before you head out aimlessly, be prepared and confident riding a Poma lift. The 4 Vallees area has a number of long drag lifts to contend with but they can be avoided. Staying in Verbier, you will have access to a number of chairlifts, gondolas, and a funicular so moving around the mountain shouldn’t pose a problem. The area of Verbier has lots of nice blues and red pistes to enjoy and the terrain park should offer a further challenge. A popular area is the red runs of the Attelas chair. Verbier even has a speed run so you can clock your top speed!

Is Verbier good for Beginners?

I wouldn’t class Verbier as a beginner’s resort and it is not a resort I would recommend to my friends for this purpose. That being said it doesn’t mean it is not for beginners. There are some nice beginner slopes and you will find a number of good local ski schools in Verbier. I would argue that Verbier lacks a good progression from the entry-level slopes to a nice blue run but that’s not to say you couldn’t learn to ski in Verbier.

Is Verbier Snow Sure?

Verbier has a high altitude with skiing possible to 3300m meaning its higher slopes offer a long season with good snow conditions. The lower slopes get a lot of sun during the late season which can make conditions slushy. The resort of Verbier does a great job of supplementing its natural snowfall with snow guns to ensure quality skiing conditions throughout the season.

VERBIER & 4 VALLEES LIFT PASSES

As with most combined ski area resorts, it is possible to purchase a local pass for Verbier or a 4 Vallees area ski pass. Depending on your ability level and duration of your stay I would recommend getting the 4 Vallees pass. By buying a 4 Vallees ski pass you will be able to explore further the resorts of; La Tzoumas, Veyzonnaz, Nendaz, and Thyon. Lift pass prices across Verbier and the 4 Vallees differ depending on peak and off-peak season with Christmas and February half-term holidays a little pricier.

How Much Is a Verbier Lift Pass?

Day Pass Adult 75CHF, Child or Senior 64CHF peak season.

6 Day Pass Adult 366CHF, Child or Senior 311CHF peak season.

SEASON DATES

Verbier opens for the season around the last weekend of November and runs lifts until April 26th. Some areas of the resort will not open until later with the popular tree skiing area Bruson opening around mid-December.

TRAVEL TO VERBIER

Where Is Verbier?

Verbier is in the Canton of Valais in the southwest of Switzerland. This area of Switzerland speaks French although German and sometimes Italian is spoken locally. English is well spoken in the region also.

How To Get To Verbier?

Due to Verbier’s proximity to Geneva, there are plenty of affordable transfer options available. With regular flights into Geneva, airport transport should be the most affordable aspect of any trip to Verbier. The transfer time is around 2 hours from Geneva and although transfers can also be provided from Zurich and Basel, these are both longer transfers.

The adventurous may wish to take advantage of the efficient railway service Switzerland offers. You can take the train straight from Geneva Airport to Le Chable, where you can take the gondola or bus to Verbier village. The train from Geneva to Verbier is great for a number of reasons. Firstly, the environmental impact will be less if you travel by train and this is equalled by the stunning views you will witness along the way. Another great reason to take the train is that you will not be restricted in terms of luggage meaning you can carry that heavy board bag without extra charges.

Self-drive is an option but ensure your accommodation offers parking as this can be an expensive add-on. There is no real need to have a car in Verbier as the village is well suited to foot travel, even in pesky ski boots. Driving to Verbier is around 9 hours after you have reached Calais, this can put a lot of people off the journey, however, self-drive can be a great way to cut costs with friends. If you are going to be driving to Verbier be aware that toll roads are expensive in Europe and you will need to pay charges in both France and Switzerland. If you plan to drive, ensure you have bought a pack to equip your car for European driving and have snow chains.

How Far Is Verbier From Geneva

Verbier is around 100miles away from Geneva airport.

VERBIER PROS

Verbier is a great resort for families
Verbier and the 4 Vallées is a large ski area with plenty of variety of pistes suiting all abilities
The linked area offers opportunities to explore and a week’s holiday can be split around the various resorts.
The itineraries are a great intro to off-piste skiing in a safer environment.
Verbier has a great village for restaurants and bars and this is a draw to a lot of visitors.

VERBIER CONS

Some resort links can be cumbersome with long button lifts or T-bars.

Verbier lift cues can get frustrating during peak periods.
Weekend warriors from Geneva are common and this can mean the main Gondola can take some time to clear.
Verbier is an expensive resort to visit especially if eating out in the village or on the mountain.

VERBIER ACCOMMODATION

Luckily for me on my trips to Verbier I was staying with friends. Besides from this, affordable Verbier options are few and far between. Aim to stay outside of Verbier and use the connecting ski lifts to access the terrain. By taking the Gondola from Les Chable you can save some £££, Nendaz, and La Tzoumaz would be other great options.

The Luxury Chalet Company have a huge selection of luxury chalets in Verbier and have been sending clients there for years

If staying in Verbier is non-negotiable then opt to stay within walking distance of the lifts. You will want to be in the lines early, especially during peak weeks as the queues can be substantial. If you are staying in a chalet they will likely provide a local shuttle bus to get between your Verbier accommodation and the lifts.

VERBIER APRES

Verbier is much more lively than the average Swiss ski resort and you will want to start early by heading to Pub Mont Fort near the gondola. There is a happy hour at Pub Mont Fort so get the drinks whilst they are cheap! If you want to make the most of Après you will also want to explore the delights of Farinet for live bands before moving onto one of Verbier’s nightclubs. People visit Verbier not just for skiing but for the incredible nightlife so be sure to put at least one night of your trip aside to dance the night away.

Verbier is not cheap so be prepared to pay for your Apres activities. A domestic beer would cost you around 7CHF whereas a meal for two people could cost around 85CHF.

FINAL THOUGHTS

To really appreciate Verbier you should feel comfortable skiing or snowboarding off-piste. Yes, there are areas for beginners but there are certainly better resorts to learn in. Take a trip to the top of Mont Gele where you will find incredible views and ungroomed runs all the way back down.